Legends

This exhibit featured a group of surfing legends of the 60' and 70' that help create a surfing dynasty that will never be duplicated.

DAVID NUUHIWA, Mr. Nose Rider It wasn't a matter of whether you could ride on the nose, but what you could do while riding there. Could you trim high and make sections while on the nose? could you stall or sideslip? How long could you stay on the nose?"When I first went out on big Pipeline day, I was a little shaky, but after my first wipeout I really didn't care anymore...and I remember thinking...there just could never be a wave like this anywhere"

SKIP FRYE, Skip Overcoming the odds after a car accident crushed one of his knees, Skip was dedicated not to give up surfing but to become a surfing champion. And in 1963, two years after the accident he won the Pacific Beach, California Contest, and again in 1964. "Influenced by the great surfers of his time, Skip's style is smooth and flowing yet aggressive. It is fluid yet changing"

GREG NOLL, The Bull
A lifeguard of many year's standing who insisted on keeping himself in razor sharp condition. A huge man of height and muscle, who had mastered the North Shore and was, in fact the first group to surf Waimea. A man known as The Bull.
"I think it's probably some good old fashioned fear, mixed together with the desire to rip 'em up! Whatever it is , it's the best sensation I can image. I don't believe I'll ever tire of it"

NAT YOUNG, the Australian Gnat
As a young boy, Robert Young reminded a fellow surfer of a "gnat sitting on the stern of the Queen Mary." Years of usage have shortened the gnat to "Nat" and transformed the outspoken critic of the surfing circuit into one of the best liked surfers in the world.Nat Young became famous in 1969 with an astounding surfboard maneuver he developed called the Sturn. Rocking down the face of a wave, he makes a sharp right turn and shoots back up to the top almost over its own wake: then with a weight shift he reverses and screams back down again. "Nat was a key player during the shortboard revolution of the late 1960's in which he helped transform the way waves were ridden and the boards that were used to ride them"

CORKY CARROLL, Cowabunga Kid
Charles Curtis Carroll, sometimes called Surfing's Clown, started surfing at the age of seven at Huntington Beach, California. He graduated from tide pools to rubber surfmats to surfboards.
Corky plans to remain in surfing all his life, entering the business end of the sport after his contest days were over. As a youth, he set a goal for himself, and reached it. He has no plans to change now.
"Contest surfing is not recreation for him. He is driven to win and he has, in his surfing career, won more contest than any other single surfer in history."

ROBERT AUGUST, the Real Thing
The word 'legend" is thrown around liberally in the surfing world. Every beach has one or two. You know, the guy who's been to Indo 23 times and "discovered" his own secret hideaway. Tres cool, but hardly the stuff of legends. Robert however is the real thing- a classic stylist on a longboard. Robert joined Mike Hynson and movie maker Bruce Brown on the trip of a life time, making the surf movie, Endless Summer. The film played to packed theatres world wide and turned surfers into household names.
"I'm happy, not wealthy but happy, and that's the bottom line."

FRED HEMMINGS, Hawaii's Big-Wave Rider
Fred Hemmings is a big wave rider in the true tradition of this native state of Hawaii. He rides them even though he knows that men have been injured or killed in the big surf. Fred became the master of the spinner, in which the surfer does a complete turnaround on his board during a ride. In the 60's many considered this a circus move on a board.
"The waves do not kill surfers, their own inability to cope with the situation is the big danger"